Many issues affected the smooth production of the uniforms throughout the First World War, including the production of the dye colour khaki. In 1913, before the start of the war, dye manufacturing in Britain was crippled by numerous strikes by Yorkshire workers protesting against poor pay. By the end of 1913, all the textile businesses of Yorkshire were also greatly affected by the high prices of wool, to such an extent that some spinning mills were reduced to only working one and a half days in a week, as noted in The Dyer and Calico Printer Journal at the time.
This therefore made the process harder with the limited stock of dye stuff in Britain.
Although the manufacture of dye was in high demand, many of the same companies produced explosives and it became apparent even to the ‘Man-in-the-street … that it is the case of explosives first, dyestuffs a bad second.’ Due in part to the increased danger in the manufacture of explosives.
The Government tried various methods to create enough khaki colour for the increased demand through the War. Government debated the control of dye manufacture but this was not resolved until after the War. The Government employed the University of Leeds, employing staff and students in research into the chemicals and dyestuff needed for warfare including the durability of the products produced which played a significant role in the war effort.
The testing of Army cloth at the University of Leeds continued throughout the war. The Government also used the Department of Tinctorial Chemistry and Dyeing in research into dyestuff and explosives vital to the War effort. It also was part of ground-breaking work in antiseptics and anaesthetics under the direction of Mr Arthur G. Perkin F.R.S., F.I.C.
Glossary:
Khaki - In the late 1800s it was becoming clear during the Anglo South African Wars, that the traditional red of a soldier’s uniform was becoming impractical in modern warfare. A dust-coloured cloth was experimented with using the materials to hand of dust, dung, and mud to create camouflage.